REVITALIZAREA CĂMĂȘII FEMEIEȘTI DE SĂRBĂTOARE: DE LA TRADIȚIONAL LA ESTETIC. Editura ProUniversitaria, București, 2025. Mădălina Căpraru

Abstract

Lesia Voroniuk, student at the National University of Cernăuți did not suspect in 2006, that her idea of declaring a national day of the Ukrainian traditional blouse, called vyshivanka, will inspire in a neighboring country, an even greater, universal day. Registered at OSIM in 2013, the “universal day of ia” even received a law: no. 184 from 2022. This sudden boost in publicity, made by enthusiasts of the traditional blouse and not by ethnographers had a series of secondary effects in the last decade: the rise in the number of textile imports with ethnic motives, from India, Turkye and China, the festivalization of the day 24 of June in the detriment of the day of Sânziene and the Christian one, the emergence of a series of groups called “șezători” with the purpose of reproducing the traditional Romanian blouse, with a more faithful or free reproduction of the Romanian blouse, and lastly, the standardization of the traditional clothing terminology. Now, we only rarely hear, from traditional craftsmen from ethnographic sites, of “cămașă”, “chimeșă” or “ciupag”, all artisanal blouses (35) with traditional inspiration are presented and sold a “ie”. The doctoral paper of Mădălina Căpraru, published at ProUniversitaria, distinguishes from the choir of laudatory books dedicated to this phenomenon, published in the recently, and offers a rigorous analysis both from a diachronic and synchronic perspective.